La Belle Époque - "The Beautiful Era"

English Actress/Singer Lily Elise; one of the great beauties of La Belle Epoque

"La Belle Époque" refers to a period in European social history from the late 19th century until the onset of the First World War (It also overlapped the Victorian/Edwardian Eras in Britain, and extended to the Untied States in what Americans refer to as "The Gilded Age") This transformative era was marked by its vast industrial progression, medical discoveries and social changes. Inventions such as the automobile, airplane, radio and electricity were all introduced during this time. Great fortunes were being made in booming economies, and the romantic optimism of the people had yet to be tarnished by the horrors of the great World War.

Decorative arts flourished during this period, and the jewelry is no exception. The signature features of Belle Époque jewelry are "White-on-White"; (white/clear stones set in white metal, usually Platinum) and delicate, open designs. As seen in the three examples on the right.

The timeless beauty of La Belle Époque jewelry reflects a time when the expansion of industry and economy seemed limitless; a time when anything was possible. If these stones hold that energy, they would make an excellent addition to one's jewelry collection.

#DE17444 Exquisite Belle Époque Diamond Pendant in an open frame floral inspired circular disk design studded with 105 old mine cut diamonds weighing approx. 5.00cts total centrally set and suspending 4 old mine cut diamonds weighing approx. 3.50cts total , in a hand made platinum mounting 11.80dwt, combined diamond weight approx. 8.50cts , accompanied with the original fitted box signed Laugier Paris. Necklace measures 20" long with 3" drop.    #DE18724 Exquisite Belle Époque Diamond Bracelet featuring an open frame sectional design centrally set with rectangular plaques studded with a European cut diamond weighing approx. .45cts attached to an open frame buckle design studded with 114 round cut diamonds    #DE18802 Very Fine Belle Époque Diamond Star Sapphire Ring centrally set with an oval cabochon cut star sapphire weighing 6.00cts framed with 144 rose cut diamonds weighing approx. 1.10cts total in a highly pierced geometric hand made platinum mounting weighing 4.00dwt, ring size 8 1/4.

"Elegance resides in the perfect harmony of thoughts, words, acts, gestures, attitudes and costume. It is through costume that elegance expresses itself most quickly"  -   Pierre Véber,  French playwright and writer (1869-1942)

From Women’s Wristlet to Men’s Status Symbol

September marks the beginning of Autumn and the end of lazy summer nights! We are dedicating this month’s newsletter to wristwatches as a reminder of how fast time flies.

“Time is too slow for those who wait, too swift for those who fear, too long for those who grieve, too short for those who rejoice, but for those who love, time is eternity.” ~Henry Van Dyke

DE18329 Fine Ladies Art Deco Swiss Platinum Diamond Watch featuring a rectangular hinged case topped with pierced geometric lugs attached to a sectional open frame rectangular link bracelet studded with 131 round and 8 baguette cut diamonds weighing approx. 2.32cts. Swiss movement, 17 jewels. 13.7dwt, 6 1/8".

Just one century ago, wrist watches were considered jewelry items reserved strictly for women. It was not coveted for its functional purpose; rather, it was prized for its aesthetic value. As a result, it did not exist in a man’s wardrobe. Instead, men carried around pocket watches worn on chains which could be strapped to the waistcoat, lapel, or belt loop.

Pocket watches surfaced in the 16th century and were modeled after clocks. It was originally designed to be worn around the neck but in the 17th century it became more popular to carry it in the pocket. Up until the 18th century, only men of prestige carried a pocket watch since it was not affordable for all classes. Eventually, watch manufacturers began to mass produce watches in affordable materials such as coin silver. Styles included open-face and hunter-case watches. The pocket watch’s stem-set movement was soon replaced by the stem-set movement which allowed for easier winding and time adjustments.

 It was around the time of World War I that wrist watches became popular for men. The military wore “trench watches” on their wrist to keep time on the battlefield. It was an easier and quicker way to check the time. The design of the men’s wrist watch was much more rugged and durable than the ladies’ dainty wrist watch. Watch manufacturers experimented with plastic covers over metallic dials as opposed to the traditional glass of porcelain. New movements were able to sustain the constant movement, tension, temperature changes, and direction of the wearer. All these improvements helped to boost the popularity of the wrist watch for men.

Today, it is very common to see prestigious men with large collections of very important watches. The wrist watch is no longer “just a piece of jewelry”!

“Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower.”

~Albert Camus

“Just before the death of flowers,

And before they are buried in snow,

There comes a festival season

When nature is all aglow.”

~Author Unknown

DuMont Estate Jewelry carries one of the largest selections of Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco, Retro, and Collectible Contemporary Jewelry in the world! Please stop by our showrooms for a visit or click here to visit our website. 

Art Deco Influences

     When one thinks of the Art Deco period, an image of dancing flappers, cigarettes, daring fashions, and strands of long pearl necklaces comes to mind. The characteristics such as strong contrast of light and dark colors, bold symmetry, exotic materials, and oriental influences are easy to spot in Art Deco jewelry. Can you spot them in nearby cars, furniture, consumer goods, and New York architecture?

     As part of a project for Walter P. Chrysler, William Van Alen designed the Chrysler building. Van Alen's unusual design included an ornamental jewel-like glass crown. It featured multi-level glass windows along with many stories of glass wrapped corners on the bottom levels. This created the illusion that the building was hovering mystically in the air.[1] It was the tallest building in the world at the time of its completion in 1930.

    The Empire State Building is a 102-story landmark in New York City. It is named after New York, the Empire State. It overcame the Chrysler building as the tallest in the world upon its completion in 1931 only to be surpassed by the World Trade Center North Tower in 1972. It now remains the tallest building in New York City.[2]

     Furniture was not only decorative but highly functional. Opulence was an important element in furniture design. Many handcrafted pieces featured expensive exotic woods and materials. Many European countries used Art Deco designs for their stamps. Surprisingly, the United States produced stamps which did not adopt this style but rather a more traditional design.Look around you and you will find many Art Deco inspired treasures (jewelry included) in the city!

     DuMont Estate Jewelry carries one of the largest selections of Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco, Retro, and Collectible Contemporary Jewelry in the world! Please stop by our showroom or our website: www.dumontestatejewelry.com for a visit.

[1] "How two men's dreams changed the skyline of New York" – Article in The New Yorker November 18, 2002

[2] Skyscraper Page – Empire State Building, antenna height source: CTBUH, top floor & roof height source: Empire State Building Company LLC

Evolution of the “Must Have” Tiara

Diamond Foam Tiara by Lorenz Bäumer for Princess Charlene Princess Charlene wearing the “Diamond Foam” tiara.  Photo credit: Daylife      July is a happy month for Princess Charlene and Albert II, Prince of Monaco. The couple was married on the 1st of the month in the Prince’s Palace. French-German designer, Lorenz Bäumer, created the gorgeous diamond tiara (above)    for the princess. The resemblance of the tiara to waves is appropriate given that the princess was an Olympic swimmer!
Evolution of the “Must Have” Tiara      Tiaras have adorned the heads of royalty since before the ancient Egyptians. It has always held similar connotations of status, power, wealth, beauty, and grace; but, each one of these treasures represents a unique and fascinating combination of craftsmanship, ingenuity, and opulence.      Take into consideration the changing themes from the tiaras of the Georgian period to the modern day creations. Laurel leaves, wreaths, and extensive open-work form the basis of the Georgian tiara. This was then covered with diamonds, pearls, corals, cameo, gems, or any combination. During this time, diamonds were set in silver which was mounted on gold. The shape of the tiara followed Hellenistic designs- with lower tapered sides reaching towards a raised center point.      During the Victorian period, Tiaras framed the face more so than the head in floral sprays and crescents. It was normal for designs of this period to function as brooches which could be combined to form a tiara. Some necklaces were sold with metal frames so that it could be transformed into a tiara.      Art nouveau tiaras were crafted in unusual materials such as horn. Enamel was used to carry out the mystic and naturalistic designs. Tiaras of the corresponding Edwardian period existed in extravagant diamond encrusted filigree forms. Pearl and diamond drops created movement and the feeling of delicacy. W. & D. Downey, London photographers      The bandeau replaced the traditional tiara during the Art Deco period. It was simple, linear, and worn low on the forehead. Diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds were set throughout the designs. Many designs allowed for the item to be worn interchangeably from a bracelet, a clip, or a brooch to a headdress. What would be your style? DuMont Estate Jewelry carries one of the largest selections of Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco, Retro, and Collectible Contemporary Jewelry in the world! Please stop by our showrooms or website www.dumontestatejewelry.com for a visit.

A Cameo Is Worth A Thousand Words

How Much Gold Is In Your Gold?

     With the increase of people turning their gold in for cash, many are discovering that they have more or less gold in their collections than they had expected. With all the different combinations of metal alloys, people are mistaking gold filled as “fake gold” and “gold plated” jewelry as fine gold. Gold in its pure form is soft, dense, and malleable. The purity of gold is expressed in karats. This indicates the minimum mass of gold over 24 parts. Therefore, 24kt gold is 24/24 parts gold. Often, gold is mixed with alloys to produce a more durable medium for jewelry crafting. In America, most gold jewelry can be found as 14kt or 18kt gold. One can also find other variations of gold content. So what is the gold content of your jewelry?

1970’s Cameo Bezel Set in Gilt Silver Frame DE18091

  

     There are many ways of incorporating gold into jewelry without using the amounts necessary for karat jewelry. One example is gold filled jewelry which is made up of a layer of gold bonded to a base metal. The Federal Trade Commission requires the weight of the layer of gold in “GF” stamped items to be at least 1/10 the weight of the total item if the gold layer is of 10kt fineness. If the gold layer is of 12kt of higher, then the weight of the gold layer is required to be 1/20 the weight of the total item. Any item with less than these requirements is termed rolled gold.

     One can also find gold plated jewelry. A thin layer of gold is deposited onto the surface of another metal by chemical or electrochemical plating. Since atoms can diffuse through the gold, a barrier metal is used between the base metal and gold layer when plating over a metal that tarnishes. Gold plating will eventually be worn off but can easily be re-plated.

Victorian Cross Pendant Featuring a Highly Etched Design in Gilt Silver DE19328

     Silver gilt is formed by plating gold over silver. This technique is very often used in larger decorative items since one can achieve the look of gold while using very little of it. The French name for this technique is called vermeil. In America, vermeil items are legally required to have a layer of gold which is at least 10kt and 2.5 microns thick. Vermeil is created by the process of fire-gilding or electrolysis.

French Art Nouveau Joan of Arc Pendant in 24kt Gold Wash DE13939

     Gold electroplate requires a layer of gold of at least 10kt fineness and of at least 0.125 microns thick. Gold wash refers to the finest layer of gold plated onto a piece of jewelry. This method of plating requires more maintenance as it will wear out the quickest.

My Sweet Honey Bee

  
     Spring welcomes renewed life, blossoming flowers, and the busy bees that make it all happen. In many cultures, bees inspire hope and exemplify diligence.Some cultures believe that bees originated from paradise. Their strength and determination in producing golden honey is viewed as inspirational to many people.
     The poets and singers of old were said to have been touched by ‘the spirit of the skilled bee’. It was believed that the gods sent bees to the lips of those whom they inspired, or touched their mouths with honey. Plato, Virgil and Sophocles had their lips touched with honey as babies. The bee seems to be a symbol of the original source of existence and motivation.

DE15936 Victorian Bee Brooch set in Gold
with Diamonds, Garnet, and Enamel.

      During Victorian times, bees were incorporated in many jewelry items to symbolize inspiration and love. The physical attributes of the bee parallel the strength and determination of lovers overcoming obstacles. The sweetness of its honey mirrors mankind’s capacity to see goodness after moments of unpleasantness. The busy bees work tirelessly during their lifetime to provide for their family while leaving flourishing life behind them. Is there a better symbol to give as a gift of love and inspiration?

DE14729 Diamond and Enamel Gold Bee

Brooch with open wings.

You can shop for more bee jewelry, antique jewelry, vintage jewelry, and estate jewelry in both of DuMont Estate Jewelry's New York City Showrooms as well as on the website at www.dumontestatejewelry.com.