Thursday, March 17, 2011

Making a Cameo in Fashion

     Traditionally, the term “cameo” referred to objects carved in relief from a different colored background. The difference in color was achieved by carving in materials which had natural banded colors such as Sardonyx, Agate, or Shell. The division of the backdrop and relief would be distinguished where the two colors meet. However, one can find cameos carved out of a single color from materials such as Amethyst or Amber glass as well.
      The earliest cameos were often carved out of semi-precious stone. These cameos are referred to as “hard stone” cameos. It is usually of greater value since it requires more skill to carve in the harder material. It was during the 15th and 16th century that it became popular to carve in shell. Some modern cameos are composed of the relief and background as separate pieces. The traditional technique of carving the entire object from a single piece is highly regarded when compared to the modern method.

DE15866: Victorian Hard stone Cameo set in Gold

     Cameos can be found in the form of jewelry or even objets d’art. Older pieces feature the subject of classical themes from mythology or carvings of important public figures. In more recent centuries, the portrait of a maiden became very popular. Antique cameos were rare even during Victorian times and this resulted in many unusual and interesting techniques of faking the real thing. Josiah Wedgewood developed a kind of stoneware which he colored with metallic oxides that was used to create cameos. His early works included many classical scenes. His jasper cameos became very popular despite the fact that they were not made using the traditional technique and are now highly collectable. Other less honest imitators attempted to “age” cameos by pushing new stone cameos into the neck of turkeys so that the gastric juices can produce the desire aged effect!
     Queen Victoria loved cameos and helped to make this fashionable accessory popular. The Queen even took Cameo carving lessons. Better technology allowed for the mass production of cameos and made it more accessible to the growing middle class. This fashion item was so popular that confectionaries started selling chocolate and sugar cameos!

DE13932: Victorian Onyx and Natural Pearl Cameo set in Gold