DuMont Estate Jewelry

From Women’s Wristlet to Men’s Status Symbol

2011-10-23T14:57:00.000-07:00

September marks the beginning of Autumn and the end of lazy summer nights! We are dedicating this month’s newsletter to wristwatches as a reminder of how fast time flies.

“Time is too slow for those who wait, too swift for those who fear, too long for those who grieve, too short for those who rejoice, but for those who love, time is eternity.” ~Henry Van Dyke

DE18329 Fine Ladies Art Deco Swiss Platinum Diamond Watch featuring a rectangular hinged case topped with pierced geometric lugs attached to a sectional open frame rectangular link bracelet studded with 131 round and 8 baguette cut diamonds weighing approx. 2.32cts. Swiss movement, 17 jewels. 13.7dwt, 6 1/8".

Just one century ago, wrist watches were considered jewelry items reserved strictly for women. It was not coveted for its functional purpose; rather, it was prized for its aesthetic value. As a result, it did not exist in a man’s wardrobe. Instead, men carried around pocket watches worn on chains which could be strapped to the waistcoat, lapel, or belt loop.

Pocket watches surfaced in the 16th century and were modeled after clocks. It was originally designed to be worn around the neck but in the 17th century it became more popular to carry it in the pocket. Up until the 18th century, only men of prestige carried a pocket watch since it was not affordable for all classes. Eventually, watch manufacturers began to mass produce watches in affordable materials such as coin silver. Styles included open-face and hunter-case watches. The pocket watch’s stem-set movement was soon replaced by the stem-set movement which allowed for easier winding and time adjustments.

It was around the time of World War I that wrist watches became popular for men. The military wore “trench watches” on their wrist to keep time on the battlefield. It was an easier and quicker way to check the time. The design of the men’s wrist watch was much more rugged and durable than the ladies’ dainty wrist watch. Watch manufacturers experimented with plastic covers over metallic dials as opposed to the traditional glass of porcelain. New movements were able to sustain the constant movement, tension, temperature changes, and direction of the wearer. All these improvements helped to boost the popularity of the wrist watch for men.

Today, it is very common to see prestigious men with large collections of very important watches. The wrist watch is no longer “just a piece of jewelry”!

“Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower.”

~Albert Camus

“Just before the death of flowers,

And before they are buried in snow,

There comes a festival season

When nature is all aglow.”

~Author Unknown

DuMont Estate Jewelry carries one of the largest selections of Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco, Retro, and Collectible Contemporary Jewelry in the world! Please stop by our showrooms for a visit or click here to visit our website.

Art Deco Influences

2011-09-07T16:27:00.000-07:00

When one thinks of the Art Deco period, an image of dancing flappers, cigarettes, daring fashions, and strands of long pearl necklaces comes to mind. The characteristics such as strong contrast of light and dark colors, bold symmetry, exotic materials, and oriental influences are easy to spot in Art Deco jewelry. Can you spot them in nearby cars, furniture, consumer goods, and New York architecture?

As part of a project for Walter P. Chrysler, William Van Alen designed the Chrysler building. Van Alen's unusual design included an ornamental jewel-like glass crown. It featured multi-level glass windows along with many stories of glass wrapped corners on the bottom levels. This created the illusion that the building was hovering mystically in the air.[1] It was the tallest building in the world at the time of its completion in 1930.

The Empire State Building is a 102-story landmark in New York City. It is named after New York, the Empire State. It overcame the Chrysler building as the tallest in the world upon its completion in 1931 only to be surpassed by the World Trade Center North Tower in 1972. It now remains the tallest building in New York City.[2]

Furniture was not only decorative but highly functional. Opulence was an important element in furniture design. Many handcrafted pieces featured expensive exotic woods and materials. Many European countries used Art Deco designs for their stamps. Surprisingly, the United States produced stamps which did not adopt this style but rather a more traditional design.Look around you and you will find many Art Deco inspired treasures (jewelry included) in the city!

[1] "How two men's dreams changed the skyline of New York" – Article in The New Yorker November 18, 2002

[2] Skyscraper Page – Empire State Building, antenna height source: CTBUH, top floor & roof height source: Empire State Building Company LLC

Evolution of the “Must Have” Tiara

2011-08-03T10:32:00.000-07:00

Diamond Foam Tiara by Lorenz Bäumer for Princess Charlene Princess Charlene wearing the “Diamond Foam” tiara. Photo credit: Daylife July is a happy month for Princess Charlene and Albert II, Prince of Monaco. The couple was married on the 1^st of the month in the Prince’s Palace. French-German designer, Lorenz Bäumer, created the gorgeous diamond tiara (above) for the princess. The resemblance of the tiara to waves is appropriate given that the princess was an Olympic swimmer!

Evolution of the “Must Have” Tiara Tiaras have adorned the heads of royalty since before the ancient Egyptians. It has always held similar connotations of status, power, wealth, beauty, and grace; but, each one of these treasures represents a unique and fascinating combination of craftsmanship, ingenuity, and opulence. Take into consideration the changing themes from the tiaras of the Georgian period to the modern day creations. Laurel leaves, wreaths, and extensive open-work form the basis of the Georgian tiara. This was then covered with diamonds, pearls, corals, cameo, gems, or any combination. During this time, diamonds were set in silver which was mounted on gold. The shape of the tiara followed Hellenistic designs- with lower tapered sides reaching towards a raised center point. During the Victorian period, Tiaras framed the face more so than the head in floral sprays and crescents. It was normal for designs of this period to function as brooches which could be combined to form a tiara. Some necklaces were sold with metal frames so that it could be transformed into a tiara. Art nouveau tiaras were crafted in unusual materials such as horn. Enamel was used to carry out the mystic and naturalistic designs. Tiaras of the corresponding Edwardian period existed in extravagant diamond encrusted filigree forms. Pearl and diamond drops created movement and the feeling of delicacy. W. & D. Downey, London photographers The bandeau replaced the traditional tiara during the Art Deco period. It was simple, linear, and worn low on the forehead. Diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds were set throughout the designs. Many designs allowed for the item to be worn interchangeably from a bracelet, a clip, or a brooch to a headdress. What would be your style? DuMont Estate Jewelry carries one of the largest selections of Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco, Retro, and Collectible Contemporary Jewelry in the world! Please stop by our showrooms or website www.dumontestatejewelry.com for a visit.

A Cameo Is Worth A Thousand Words

2011-06-15T13:08:00.000-07:00

How Much Gold Is In Your Gold?

2011-06-15T12:22:00.001-07:00

With the increase of people turning their gold in for cash, many are discovering that they have more or less gold in their collections than they had expected. With all the different combinations of metal alloys, people are mistaking gold filled as “fake gold” and “gold plated” jewelry as fine gold. Gold in its pure form is soft, dense, and malleable. The purity of gold is expressed in karats. This indicates the minimum mass of gold over 24 parts. Therefore, 24kt gold is 24/24 parts gold. Often, gold is mixed with alloys to produce a more durable medium for jewelry crafting. In America, most gold jewelry can be found as 14kt or 18kt gold. One can also find other variations of gold content. So what is the gold content of your jewelry?

1970’s Cameo Bezel Set in Gilt Silver Frame DE18091

There are many ways of incorporating gold into jewelry without using the amounts necessary for karat jewelry. One example is gold filled jewelry which is made up of a layer of gold bonded to a base metal. The Federal Trade Commission requires the weight of the layer of gold in “GF” stamped items to be at least 1/10 the weight of the total item if the gold layer is of 10kt fineness. If the gold layer is of 12kt of higher, then the weight of the gold layer is required to be 1/20 the weight of the total item. Any item with less than these requirements is termed rolled gold.

One can also find gold plated jewelry. A thin layer of gold is deposited onto the surface of another metal by chemical or electrochemical plating. Since atoms can diffuse through the gold, a barrier metal is used between the base metal and gold layer when plating over a metal that tarnishes. Gold plating will eventually be worn off but can easily be re-plated.

Victorian Cross Pendant Featuring a Highly Etched Design in Gilt Silver DE19328

Silver gilt is formed by plating gold over silver. This technique is very often used in larger decorative items since one can achieve the look of gold while using very little of it. The French name for this technique is called vermeil. In America, vermeil items are legally required to have a layer of gold which is at least 10kt and 2.5 microns thick. Vermeil is created by the process of fire-gilding or electrolysis.

French Art Nouveau Joan of Arc Pendant in 24kt Gold Wash DE13939

Gold electroplate requires a layer of gold of at least 10kt fineness and of at least 0.125 microns thick. Gold wash refers to the finest layer of gold plated onto a piece of jewelry. This method of plating requires more maintenance as it will wear out the quickest.

My Sweet Honey Bee

2011-04-09T10:11:00.000-07:00

     Spring welcomes renewed life, blossoming flowers, and the busy bees that make it all happen. In many cultures, bees inspire hope and exemplify diligence.Some cultures believe that bees originated from paradise. Their strength and determination in producing golden honey is viewed as inspirational to many people.
     The poets and singers of old were said to have been touched by ‘the spirit of the skilled bee’. It was believed that the gods sent bees to the lips of those whom they inspired, or touched their mouths with honey. Plato, Virgil and Sophocles had their lips touched with honey as babies. The bee seems to be a symbol of the original source of existence and motivation.

DE15936 Victorian Bee Brooch set in Gold
with Diamonds, Garnet, and Enamel.

During Victorian times, bees were incorporated in many jewelry items to symbolize inspiration and love. The physical attributes of the bee parallel the strength and determination of lovers overcoming obstacles. The sweetness of its honey mirrors mankind’s capacity to see goodness after moments of unpleasantness. The busy bees work tirelessly during their lifetime to provide for their family while leaving flourishing life behind them. Is there a better symbol to give as a gift of love and inspiration?

DE14729 Diamond and Enamel Gold Bee

Brooch with open wings.

You can shop for more bee jewelry, antique jewelry, vintage jewelry, and estate jewelry in both of DuMont Estate Jewelry's New York City Showrooms as well as on the website at www.dumontestatejewelry.com.

Making a Cameo in Fashion

2011-03-17T07:57:00.000-07:00

Traditionally, the term “cameo” referred to objects carved in relief from a different colored background. The difference in color was achieved by carving in materials which had natural banded colors such as Sardonyx, Agate, or Shell. The division of the backdrop and relief would be distinguished where the two colors meet. However, one can find cameos carved out of a single color from materials such as Amethyst or Amber glass as well.

The earliest cameos were often carved out of semi-precious stone. These cameos are referred to as “hard stone” cameos. It is usually of greater value since it requires more skill to carve in the harder material. It was during the 15^th and 16^th century that it became popular to carve in shell. Some modern cameos are composed of the relief and background as separate pieces. The traditional technique of carving the entire object from a single piece is highly regarded when compared to the modern method.

DE15866: Victorian Hard stone Cameo set in Gold

Cameos can be found in the form of jewelry or even objets d’art. Older pieces feature the subject of classical themes from mythology or carvings of important public figures. In more recent centuries, the portrait of a maiden became very popular. Antique cameos were rare even during Victorian times and this resulted in many unusual and interesting techniques of faking the real thing. Josiah Wedgewood developed a kind of stoneware which he colored with metallic oxides that was used to create cameos. His early works included many classical scenes. His jasper cameos became very popular despite the fact that they were not made using the traditional technique and are now highly collectable. Other less honest imitators attempted to “age” cameos by pushing new stone cameos into the neck of turkeys so that the gastric juices can produce the desire aged effect!

Queen Victoria loved cameos and helped to make this fashionable accessory popular. The Queen even took Cameo carving lessons. Better technology allowed for the mass production of cameos and made it more accessible to the growing middle class. This fashion item was so popular that confectionaries started selling chocolate and sugar cameos!

DE13932: Victorian Onyx and Natural Pearl Cameo set in Gold

Pyrope Jewelry

2011-02-16T10:22:00.001-08:00

    Garnet is the birthstone of January. It is one of the largest families of gemstones and comes in every color except for blue. However, the name Garnet stems from the red variety and the pomegranate fruit. Its name actually translates to “fiery” due to its resemblance to the clusters of seeds in the fruit.
     The variety best known for its deep red color and beautiful clarity is the Pyrope variety. This name was derived from the Greek word for “fire” and “eye”. Pyrope is found in the Czech Republic. During Victorian times, this place was
called Bohemia. Much of the jewelry from this period was crafted from Bohemian Garnets. Its deep rich color qualified it as part of daytime dress along with Jet and Pyrite. It is beautiful but not distracting and was deemed appropriate for mourning attire. A great deal of the jewelry worn after Prince Albert’s death featured Pyrope. It was used as sentimental jewelry to express love as well as mourning. Garnets would be used in jewelry to spell words such as “regard” (“g” for garnet” and “hope” (“p” for Pyrope).
     Although this stone was very abundant during Victorian times, it has become much harder to find since it is only mined in the Czech Republic. Victorian Pyrope jewelry would be a fantastic addition to any collection!

DE11826: 1960's Victorian Style Garnet and Cultured Pearl Necklace

DE14143: Victorian Czechoslovakian Garnet Brooch in an Open Frame Floral Inspired Design

Grammys glitter: elaborate earrings, chunky cuffs | National Jeweler

2011-02-16T10:21:00.000-08:00

Grammys glitter: elaborate earrings, chunky cuffs | National Jeweler

The Allure of Sapphires

2010-12-11T16:35:00.000-08:00

Once in a Blue Moon, Feeling Blue, True Blue, and Sacrebleu!

The color blue can signify rarity, one’s sadness, loyalty, and even surprise! Blue is recognized as a color of royalty and a frequent favorite color for many people. The magnificence of this color is that it can represent a very diverse set of emotions for different people.
     Take into consideration the symbolic language mentioned in the title of this article: “Once in a Blue Moon” suggests a rare occurrence and “feeling blue” refers to a sense of sadness. The term “True Blue” is one of a fascinating and historical origin. It is meant to symbolize one’s unwavering loyalty. The saying is believed to be derived from the blue cloth made by dyers in Coventry, England during the middle ages. This cloth had a reputation for its persistent blue color which did not fade with washing. In the 17th century, Scottish Presbyterians who opposed the rule of James I of Scotland wore blue badges to symbolize their enduring support for the cause. Even today, conservative politics has an association with the color blue.
     Many Americans may recognize the exclamation “Sacrebleu!” from Disney movies such as The Little Mermaid and Beauty and the Beast. Its literal translation is “sacred blue”. The source of this phrase actually has roots in the Catholic church. Imagine such an exclamation inspired by the church! It is thought to originate from someone’s exclamation when viewing a painting of the Virgin Mary dressed in blue. This expression refers to God while reserving the mention of his name.With its fascinating history and association, it is no wonder blue is such a popular color!

Royal Sri Lankan Sapphires

     Sri Lankan Sapphires are one of the three most highly regarded Sapphires. The other two famous types are Burmese Sapphires and Kashmir Sapphires. Sri Lanka is believed to have one of the oldest Sapphire mines in the world. According to the tradition of Judaism the tablets upon which the Ten Commandments were carved by Moses are Sapphires. The color is supposed to be a mark of the heavens; therefore, it represents God’s throne.
     The use of Sri Lankan Sapphires in Royal jewels has been a popular practice. The St. Edward Sapphire on the Imperial Crown of State worn by Queen Elizabeth II comes from Sri Lanka. Princess Diana’s engagement ring also had a Sri Lankan Sapphire. It is no wonder Prince William proposed to Kate Middleton with such a precious jewel. This ring will definitely be a symbol of this century’s royal wedding!

DE15926 Sapphire & Diamond Cocktail Ring

DE16324 Sapphire & Diamond Cocktail Ring

DE16184 Pear Shaped Sapphire and Diamond Ring

DE17352 Sapphire and Diamond Engagement Ring

Adding to the allure of Sapphires, ancient Persian legend has it that Mother Earth rests upon a massive blue sapphire. The striking blue sky is purely a reflection of this mythical stone. This would be a stone to desire!

A livelier emerald twinkles in the grass; a purer sapphire melts into the sea. –Tennyson

Ancient Egyptian Luxuries

2010-11-23T12:51:00.000-08:00

In addition to man's innate fascination with beautiful items, jewelry had a spiritual and magical significance in the Egyptian ancient world. It protected the wearer from malevolence and illness. Jewelry was so important to daily life that it was even buried with the dead to ensure a lavish journey into the afterlife! Deep red Rubies adorned the bodies of the dead to represent an offering of blood to the God Isis!
It was not just women who wore jewelry. Men were often dressed in beautiful ornaments possessing different powers. Bright green Emeralds symbolized life and success. Majestic blue colored stones such as Lapis Lazuli and Turquoise were highly favored by royalty. Jewelry was so important to the Ancient Egyptians that it was during the Middle Kingdom in Egypt when many new gold working techniques were invented. At the time, much of the abundant gold came from Nubia. It was only after the arrival of Christianity in Egypt that the wearing of ornate jewelry began to decline. The new Christians wore smaller ornaments to show their piety and devotion to the new religion. After the introduction of Islam, men no longer wore gold jewelry.

Can’t Fight the Influence

In Elizabeth Taylor’s most famous role, Cleopatra wears a collection of beautiful Ancient Egyptian inspired jewelry. The motion picture sparked her personal interest with jewelry in elaborate matching sets. Her parures often consisted of a bib style necklace, matching drop ear pendants, bracelets, and a ring in every color of the rainbow! Emeralds and Rubies were popular in Egyptian jewelry and these gemstones appeared in many pieces of her jewelry. This heavy eyeliner look was so enchanting that Elizabeth Taylor adopted the look many times even after filming. From their rituals, to jewelry, to eye make-up- the Egyptians were dramatic indeed!

Colorful stones were not just used in jewelry. They were used for make-up as well! In Egyptians times, Lapis Lazuli (blue) and Malachite (Green) were among the stones used for colored eye liner. This was popularized by the image of the Goddesses wearing extended eyeliner in carvings and statues. This was not a practice restricted to the rich. It was worn by all people- even men!

DE18206 Victorian Emerald Charm/ Pendant set in Yellow Gold. Etruscan style Gold beads decorate the top of the acorn shaped emerald.

“Fool! Don't you see now that I could have poisoned you a hundred times had I been able to live without you?” ~Cleopatra

Midday Dinners

2010-10-30T10:57:00.000-07:00

Prior to the 18th century, dinner was served at midday. During the Georgian period, the lower classes continued to eat this meal at midday since they could not afford a candlelit meal. The growing upper class began to dine later in the evening to show off their ability to provide lighting for servants to cook and serve a meal after sun down!

Honeymoon and Honey Mead

2010-10-28T15:51:00.000-07:00

The Origin of the Honeymoon Tradition

     In European history, the Honeymoon was recorded as the tradition of kidnapping a lady and taking her as wife. A friend would help to hide the whereabouts of the kidnapper and bride from the rest of their families and neighbors. For the entire duration of capture, they would drink a honey wine called mead. This was to symbolize the sweetness of new love. Once the four phases of the moon pass, the couple would return home as husband and wife. The word Honeymoon was most likely derived from this drink and the monthly change in the phases of the moon; symbolizing the fading and growing of love throughout a marriage.
     The historical tradition of Honeymoon is very different from most Honeymoons today. The couples usually decide on the destination, time period, and activities of the getaway together. Some people even choose not to go away for their Honeymoon; instead, they opt to stay close to home where they have festivities planned.
     In modern day America, kidnapping a stranger, expecting them to fall in love with you, and having them feel alright about the whole ordeal would be unfathomable! This kind of Honeymoon would only exist in Hollywood films!

A Gift Exchanged by the Bride and Groom

     The tradition of exchanging a present on the wedding night has been around for a long time. It’s a symbol of appreciation for each other as husband and wife. In truth, it is not required for a couple to exchange presents. There are partners who are unaware of this special tradition. So why does it matter?
     SHE may not expect any presents from you upon entering the honeymoon suite. But you look her in the eyes, pronounce your love, and present her with a gorgeous gift of jewelry (a lovely pair of earrings or anything to go with her new sparkler). What happens next? She falls into your arms absolutely delighted, cries, and tells you that she will never ever forget this moment in her life. You are a hero.
    HE may have no expectations; after all, he is already married to the most fabulous woman in the entire world. So what happens when you walk up to him and present him with a watch that he has always wanted? Perhaps a pair of elegant cufflinks? There is no better way to show your admiration of how amazing he is- his beautiful vows that moved you to tears, his willingness to tuck in his shirt for once, or his patience with the daylong wedding photography- like a unique gift.
     There are so many ways to say “I love and appreciate you”. It does not have to cost much but make the gift and its presentation meaningful.

A husband may forget where he went on his honeymoon, but he never forgets why. ~Anonymous

DuMont Estate Jewelry

From Women’s Wristlet to Men’s Status Symbol

Art Deco Influences

Evolution of the “Must Have” Tiara

Diamond Foam Tiara by Lorenz Bäumer for Princess Charlene

A Cameo Is Worth A Thousand Words

How Much Gold Is In Your Gold?

My Sweet Honey Bee

Making a Cameo in Fashion

Pyrope Jewelry

Grammys glitter: elaborate earrings, chunky cuffs | National Jeweler

The Allure of Sapphires

Ancient Egyptian Luxuries

Midday Dinners

Honeymoon and Honey Mead