A Cameo Is Worth A Thousand Words

How Much Gold Is In Your Gold?

     With the increase of people turning their gold in for cash, many are discovering that they have more or less gold in their collections than they had expected. With all the different combinations of metal alloys, people are mistaking gold filled as “fake gold” and “gold plated” jewelry as fine gold. Gold in its pure form is soft, dense, and malleable. The purity of gold is expressed in karats. This indicates the minimum mass of gold over 24 parts. Therefore, 24kt gold is 24/24 parts gold. Often, gold is mixed with alloys to produce a more durable medium for jewelry crafting. In America, most gold jewelry can be found as 14kt or 18kt gold. One can also find other variations of gold content. So what is the gold content of your jewelry?

1970’s Cameo Bezel Set in Gilt Silver Frame DE18091

  

     There are many ways of incorporating gold into jewelry without using the amounts necessary for karat jewelry. One example is gold filled jewelry which is made up of a layer of gold bonded to a base metal. The Federal Trade Commission requires the weight of the layer of gold in “GF” stamped items to be at least 1/10 the weight of the total item if the gold layer is of 10kt fineness. If the gold layer is of 12kt of higher, then the weight of the gold layer is required to be 1/20 the weight of the total item. Any item with less than these requirements is termed rolled gold.

     One can also find gold plated jewelry. A thin layer of gold is deposited onto the surface of another metal by chemical or electrochemical plating. Since atoms can diffuse through the gold, a barrier metal is used between the base metal and gold layer when plating over a metal that tarnishes. Gold plating will eventually be worn off but can easily be re-plated.

Victorian Cross Pendant Featuring a Highly Etched Design in Gilt Silver DE19328

     Silver gilt is formed by plating gold over silver. This technique is very often used in larger decorative items since one can achieve the look of gold while using very little of it. The French name for this technique is called vermeil. In America, vermeil items are legally required to have a layer of gold which is at least 10kt and 2.5 microns thick. Vermeil is created by the process of fire-gilding or electrolysis.

French Art Nouveau Joan of Arc Pendant in 24kt Gold Wash DE13939

     Gold electroplate requires a layer of gold of at least 10kt fineness and of at least 0.125 microns thick. Gold wash refers to the finest layer of gold plated onto a piece of jewelry. This method of plating requires more maintenance as it will wear out the quickest.

My Sweet Honey Bee

  
     Spring welcomes renewed life, blossoming flowers, and the busy bees that make it all happen. In many cultures, bees inspire hope and exemplify diligence.Some cultures believe that bees originated from paradise. Their strength and determination in producing golden honey is viewed as inspirational to many people.
     The poets and singers of old were said to have been touched by ‘the spirit of the skilled bee’. It was believed that the gods sent bees to the lips of those whom they inspired, or touched their mouths with honey. Plato, Virgil and Sophocles had their lips touched with honey as babies. The bee seems to be a symbol of the original source of existence and motivation.

DE15936 Victorian Bee Brooch set in Gold
with Diamonds, Garnet, and Enamel.

      During Victorian times, bees were incorporated in many jewelry items to symbolize inspiration and love. The physical attributes of the bee parallel the strength and determination of lovers overcoming obstacles. The sweetness of its honey mirrors mankind’s capacity to see goodness after moments of unpleasantness. The busy bees work tirelessly during their lifetime to provide for their family while leaving flourishing life behind them. Is there a better symbol to give as a gift of love and inspiration?

DE14729 Diamond and Enamel Gold Bee

Brooch with open wings.

You can shop for more bee jewelry, antique jewelry, vintage jewelry, and estate jewelry in both of DuMont Estate Jewelry's New York City Showrooms as well as on the website at www.dumontestatejewelry.com.

Making a Cameo in Fashion

     Traditionally, the term “cameo” referred to objects carved in relief from a different colored background. The difference in color was achieved by carving in materials which had natural banded colors such as Sardonyx, Agate, or Shell. The division of the backdrop and relief would be distinguished where the two colors meet. However, one can find cameos carved out of a single color from materials such as Amethyst or Amber glass as well.

      The earliest cameos were often carved out of semi-precious stone. These cameos are referred to as “hard stone” cameos. It is usually of greater value since it requires more skill to carve in the harder material. It was during the 15^th and 16^th century that it became popular to carve in shell. Some modern cameos are composed of the relief and background as separate pieces. The traditional technique of carving the entire object from a single piece is highly regarded when compared to the modern method.

DE15866: Victorian Hard stone Cameo set in Gold

     Cameos can be found in the form of jewelry or even objets d’art. Older pieces feature the subject of classical themes from mythology or carvings of important public figures. In more recent centuries, the portrait of a maiden became very popular. Antique cameos were rare even during Victorian times and this resulted in many unusual and interesting techniques of faking the real thing. Josiah Wedgewood developed a kind of stoneware which he colored with metallic oxides that was used to create cameos. His early works included many classical scenes. His jasper cameos became very popular despite the fact that they were not made using the traditional technique and are now highly collectable. Other less honest imitators attempted to “age” cameos by pushing new stone cameos into the neck of turkeys so that the gastric juices can produce the desire aged effect!

     Queen Victoria loved cameos and helped to make this fashionable accessory popular. The Queen even took Cameo carving lessons. Better technology allowed for the mass production of cameos and made it more accessible to the growing middle class. This fashion item was so popular that confectionaries started selling chocolate and sugar cameos!

DE13932: Victorian Onyx and Natural Pearl Cameo set in Gold

            

Pyrope Jewelry

    Garnet is the birthstone of January. It is one of the largest families of gemstones and comes in every color except for blue. However, the name Garnet stems from the red variety and the pomegranate fruit. Its name actually translates to “fiery” due to its resemblance to the clusters of seeds in the fruit.
     The variety best known for its deep red color and beautiful clarity is the Pyrope variety. This name was derived from the Greek word for “fire” and “eye”. Pyrope is found in the Czech Republic. During Victorian times, this place was
called Bohemia. Much of the jewelry from this period was crafted from Bohemian Garnets. Its deep rich color qualified it as part of daytime dress along with Jet and Pyrite. It is beautiful but not distracting and was deemed appropriate for mourning attire. A great deal of the jewelry worn after Prince Albert’s death featured Pyrope. It was used as sentimental jewelry to express love as well as mourning. Garnets would be used in jewelry to spell words such as “regard” (“g” for garnet” and “hope” (“p” for Pyrope).
     Although this stone was very abundant during Victorian times, it has become much harder to find since it is only mined in the Czech Republic. Victorian Pyrope jewelry would be a fantastic addition to any collection!

DE11826: 1960's Victorian Style Garnet and Cultured Pearl Necklace

DE14143: Victorian Czechoslovakian Garnet Brooch in an Open Frame Floral Inspired Design

Grammys glitter: elaborate earrings, chunky cuffs | National Jeweler

Grammys glitter: elaborate earrings, chunky cuffs | National Jeweler

The Allure of Sapphires

Once in a Blue Moon, Feeling Blue, True Blue, and Sacrebleu!

  The color blue can signify rarity, one’s sadness, loyalty, and even surprise! Blue is recognized as a color of royalty and a frequent favorite color for many people. The magnificence of this color is that it can represent a very diverse set of emotions for different people.
     Take into consideration the symbolic language mentioned in the title of this article: “Once in a Blue Moon” suggests a rare occurrence and “feeling blue” refers to a sense of sadness. The term “True Blue” is one of a fascinating and historical origin. It is meant to symbolize one’s unwavering loyalty. The saying is believed to be derived from the blue cloth made by dyers in Coventry, England during the middle ages. This cloth had a reputation for its persistent blue color which did not fade with washing. In the 17th century, Scottish Presbyterians who opposed the rule of James I of Scotland wore blue badges to symbolize their enduring support for the cause. Even today, conservative politics has an association with the color blue.    
     Many Americans may recognize the exclamation “Sacrebleu!” from Disney movies such as The Little Mermaid and Beauty and the Beast. Its literal translation is “sacred blue”. The source of this phrase actually has roots in the Catholic church. Imagine such an exclamation inspired by the church! It is thought to originate from someone’s exclamation when viewing a painting of the Virgin Mary dressed in blue. This expression refers to God while reserving the mention of his name.With its fascinating history and association, it is no wonder blue is such a popular color!

Royal Sri Lankan Sapphires

     Sri Lankan Sapphires are one of the three most highly regarded Sapphires. The other two famous types are Burmese Sapphires and Kashmir Sapphires. Sri Lanka is believed to have one of the oldest Sapphire mines in the world. According to the tradition of Judaism the tablets upon which the Ten Commandments were carved by Moses are Sapphires. The color is supposed to be a mark of the heavens; therefore, it represents God’s throne.
     The use of Sri Lankan Sapphires in Royal jewels has been a popular practice. The St. Edward Sapphire on the Imperial Crown of State worn by Queen Elizabeth II comes from Sri Lanka. Princess Diana’s engagement ring also had a Sri Lankan Sapphire. It is no wonder Prince William proposed to Kate Middleton with such a precious jewel. This ring will definitely be a symbol of this century’s royal wedding!

DE15926 Sapphire & Diamond Cocktail Ring

DE16324 Sapphire & Diamond Cocktail Ring

DE16184 Pear Shaped Sapphire and Diamond Ring

DE17352 Sapphire and Diamond Engagement Ring

Adding to the allure of Sapphires, ancient Persian legend has it that Mother Earth rests upon a massive blue sapphire. The striking blue sky is purely a reflection of this mythical stone. This would be a stone to desire!

A livelier emerald twinkles in the grass; a purer sapphire melts into the sea. –Tennyson