La Belle Époque - "The Beautiful Era"

English Actress/Singer Lily Elise; one of the great beauties of La Belle Epoque

"La Belle Époque" refers to a period in European social history from the late 19th century until the onset of the First World War (It also overlapped the Victorian/Edwardian Eras in Britain, and extended to the Untied States in what Americans refer to as "The Gilded Age") This transformative era was marked by its vast industrial progression, medical discoveries and social changes. Inventions such as the automobile, airplane, radio and electricity were all introduced during this time. Great fortunes were being made in booming economies, and the romantic optimism of the people had yet to be tarnished by the horrors of the great World War.

Decorative arts flourished during this period, and the jewelry is no exception. The signature features of Belle Époque jewelry are "White-on-White"; (white/clear stones set in white metal, usually Platinum) and delicate, open designs. As seen in the three examples on the right.

The timeless beauty of La Belle Époque jewelry reflects a time when the expansion of industry and economy seemed limitless; a time when anything was possible. If these stones hold that energy, they would make an excellent addition to one's jewelry collection.

#DE17444 Exquisite Belle Époque Diamond Pendant in an open frame floral inspired circular disk design studded with 105 old mine cut diamonds weighing approx. 5.00cts total centrally set and suspending 4 old mine cut diamonds weighing approx. 3.50cts total , in a hand made platinum mounting 11.80dwt, combined diamond weight approx. 8.50cts , accompanied with the original fitted box signed Laugier Paris. Necklace measures 20" long with 3" drop.    #DE18724 Exquisite Belle Époque Diamond Bracelet featuring an open frame sectional design centrally set with rectangular plaques studded with a European cut diamond weighing approx. .45cts attached to an open frame buckle design studded with 114 round cut diamonds    #DE18802 Very Fine Belle Époque Diamond Star Sapphire Ring centrally set with an oval cabochon cut star sapphire weighing 6.00cts framed with 144 rose cut diamonds weighing approx. 1.10cts total in a highly pierced geometric hand made platinum mounting weighing 4.00dwt, ring size 8 1/4.

"Elegance resides in the perfect harmony of thoughts, words, acts, gestures, attitudes and costume. It is through costume that elegance expresses itself most quickly"  -   Pierre Véber,  French playwright and writer (1869-1942)

From Women’s Wristlet to Men’s Status Symbol

September marks the beginning of Autumn and the end of lazy summer nights! We are dedicating this month’s newsletter to wristwatches as a reminder of how fast time flies.

“Time is too slow for those who wait, too swift for those who fear, too long for those who grieve, too short for those who rejoice, but for those who love, time is eternity.” ~Henry Van Dyke

DE18329 Fine Ladies Art Deco Swiss Platinum Diamond Watch featuring a rectangular hinged case topped with pierced geometric lugs attached to a sectional open frame rectangular link bracelet studded with 131 round and 8 baguette cut diamonds weighing approx. 2.32cts. Swiss movement, 17 jewels. 13.7dwt, 6 1/8".

Just one century ago, wrist watches were considered jewelry items reserved strictly for women. It was not coveted for its functional purpose; rather, it was prized for its aesthetic value. As a result, it did not exist in a man’s wardrobe. Instead, men carried around pocket watches worn on chains which could be strapped to the waistcoat, lapel, or belt loop.

Pocket watches surfaced in the 16th century and were modeled after clocks. It was originally designed to be worn around the neck but in the 17th century it became more popular to carry it in the pocket. Up until the 18th century, only men of prestige carried a pocket watch since it was not affordable for all classes. Eventually, watch manufacturers began to mass produce watches in affordable materials such as coin silver. Styles included open-face and hunter-case watches. The pocket watch’s stem-set movement was soon replaced by the stem-set movement which allowed for easier winding and time adjustments.

 It was around the time of World War I that wrist watches became popular for men. The military wore “trench watches” on their wrist to keep time on the battlefield. It was an easier and quicker way to check the time. The design of the men’s wrist watch was much more rugged and durable than the ladies’ dainty wrist watch. Watch manufacturers experimented with plastic covers over metallic dials as opposed to the traditional glass of porcelain. New movements were able to sustain the constant movement, tension, temperature changes, and direction of the wearer. All these improvements helped to boost the popularity of the wrist watch for men.

Today, it is very common to see prestigious men with large collections of very important watches. The wrist watch is no longer “just a piece of jewelry”!

“Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower.”

~Albert Camus

“Just before the death of flowers,

And before they are buried in snow,

There comes a festival season

When nature is all aglow.”

~Author Unknown

DuMont Estate Jewelry carries one of the largest selections of Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco, Retro, and Collectible Contemporary Jewelry in the world! Please stop by our showrooms for a visit or click here to visit our website. 

Art Deco Influences

     When one thinks of the Art Deco period, an image of dancing flappers, cigarettes, daring fashions, and strands of long pearl necklaces comes to mind. The characteristics such as strong contrast of light and dark colors, bold symmetry, exotic materials, and oriental influences are easy to spot in Art Deco jewelry. Can you spot them in nearby cars, furniture, consumer goods, and New York architecture?

     As part of a project for Walter P. Chrysler, William Van Alen designed the Chrysler building. Van Alen's unusual design included an ornamental jewel-like glass crown. It featured multi-level glass windows along with many stories of glass wrapped corners on the bottom levels. This created the illusion that the building was hovering mystically in the air.[1] It was the tallest building in the world at the time of its completion in 1930.

    The Empire State Building is a 102-story landmark in New York City. It is named after New York, the Empire State. It overcame the Chrysler building as the tallest in the world upon its completion in 1931 only to be surpassed by the World Trade Center North Tower in 1972. It now remains the tallest building in New York City.[2]

     Furniture was not only decorative but highly functional. Opulence was an important element in furniture design. Many handcrafted pieces featured expensive exotic woods and materials. Many European countries used Art Deco designs for their stamps. Surprisingly, the United States produced stamps which did not adopt this style but rather a more traditional design.Look around you and you will find many Art Deco inspired treasures (jewelry included) in the city!

     DuMont Estate Jewelry carries one of the largest selections of Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco, Retro, and Collectible Contemporary Jewelry in the world! Please stop by our showroom or our website: www.dumontestatejewelry.com for a visit.

[1] "How two men's dreams changed the skyline of New York" – Article in The New Yorker November 18, 2002

[2] Skyscraper Page – Empire State Building, antenna height source: CTBUH, top floor & roof height source: Empire State Building Company LLC