Evolution of the “Must Have” Tiara

Diamond Foam Tiara by Lorenz Bäumer for Princess Charlene Princess Charlene wearing the “Diamond Foam” tiara.  Photo credit: Daylife      July is a happy month for Princess Charlene and Albert II, Prince of Monaco. The couple was married on the 1st of the month in the Prince’s Palace. French-German designer, Lorenz Bäumer, created the gorgeous diamond tiara (above)    for the princess. The resemblance of the tiara to waves is appropriate given that the princess was an Olympic swimmer!
Evolution of the “Must Have” Tiara      Tiaras have adorned the heads of royalty since before the ancient Egyptians. It has always held similar connotations of status, power, wealth, beauty, and grace; but, each one of these treasures represents a unique and fascinating combination of craftsmanship, ingenuity, and opulence.      Take into consideration the changing themes from the tiaras of the Georgian period to the modern day creations. Laurel leaves, wreaths, and extensive open-work form the basis of the Georgian tiara. This was then covered with diamonds, pearls, corals, cameo, gems, or any combination. During this time, diamonds were set in silver which was mounted on gold. The shape of the tiara followed Hellenistic designs- with lower tapered sides reaching towards a raised center point.      During the Victorian period, Tiaras framed the face more so than the head in floral sprays and crescents. It was normal for designs of this period to function as brooches which could be combined to form a tiara. Some necklaces were sold with metal frames so that it could be transformed into a tiara.      Art nouveau tiaras were crafted in unusual materials such as horn. Enamel was used to carry out the mystic and naturalistic designs. Tiaras of the corresponding Edwardian period existed in extravagant diamond encrusted filigree forms. Pearl and diamond drops created movement and the feeling of delicacy. W. & D. Downey, London photographers      The bandeau replaced the traditional tiara during the Art Deco period. It was simple, linear, and worn low on the forehead. Diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds were set throughout the designs. Many designs allowed for the item to be worn interchangeably from a bracelet, a clip, or a brooch to a headdress. What would be your style? DuMont Estate Jewelry carries one of the largest selections of Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco, Retro, and Collectible Contemporary Jewelry in the world! Please stop by our showrooms or website www.dumontestatejewelry.com for a visit.

A Cameo Is Worth A Thousand Words

How Much Gold Is In Your Gold?

     With the increase of people turning their gold in for cash, many are discovering that they have more or less gold in their collections than they had expected. With all the different combinations of metal alloys, people are mistaking gold filled as “fake gold” and “gold plated” jewelry as fine gold. Gold in its pure form is soft, dense, and malleable. The purity of gold is expressed in karats. This indicates the minimum mass of gold over 24 parts. Therefore, 24kt gold is 24/24 parts gold. Often, gold is mixed with alloys to produce a more durable medium for jewelry crafting. In America, most gold jewelry can be found as 14kt or 18kt gold. One can also find other variations of gold content. So what is the gold content of your jewelry?

1970’s Cameo Bezel Set in Gilt Silver Frame DE18091

  

     There are many ways of incorporating gold into jewelry without using the amounts necessary for karat jewelry. One example is gold filled jewelry which is made up of a layer of gold bonded to a base metal. The Federal Trade Commission requires the weight of the layer of gold in “GF” stamped items to be at least 1/10 the weight of the total item if the gold layer is of 10kt fineness. If the gold layer is of 12kt of higher, then the weight of the gold layer is required to be 1/20 the weight of the total item. Any item with less than these requirements is termed rolled gold.

     One can also find gold plated jewelry. A thin layer of gold is deposited onto the surface of another metal by chemical or electrochemical plating. Since atoms can diffuse through the gold, a barrier metal is used between the base metal and gold layer when plating over a metal that tarnishes. Gold plating will eventually be worn off but can easily be re-plated.

Victorian Cross Pendant Featuring a Highly Etched Design in Gilt Silver DE19328

     Silver gilt is formed by plating gold over silver. This technique is very often used in larger decorative items since one can achieve the look of gold while using very little of it. The French name for this technique is called vermeil. In America, vermeil items are legally required to have a layer of gold which is at least 10kt and 2.5 microns thick. Vermeil is created by the process of fire-gilding or electrolysis.

French Art Nouveau Joan of Arc Pendant in 24kt Gold Wash DE13939

     Gold electroplate requires a layer of gold of at least 10kt fineness and of at least 0.125 microns thick. Gold wash refers to the finest layer of gold plated onto a piece of jewelry. This method of plating requires more maintenance as it will wear out the quickest.

My Sweet Honey Bee

  
     Spring welcomes renewed life, blossoming flowers, and the busy bees that make it all happen. In many cultures, bees inspire hope and exemplify diligence.Some cultures believe that bees originated from paradise. Their strength and determination in producing golden honey is viewed as inspirational to many people.
     The poets and singers of old were said to have been touched by ‘the spirit of the skilled bee’. It was believed that the gods sent bees to the lips of those whom they inspired, or touched their mouths with honey. Plato, Virgil and Sophocles had their lips touched with honey as babies. The bee seems to be a symbol of the original source of existence and motivation.

DE15936 Victorian Bee Brooch set in Gold
with Diamonds, Garnet, and Enamel.

      During Victorian times, bees were incorporated in many jewelry items to symbolize inspiration and love. The physical attributes of the bee parallel the strength and determination of lovers overcoming obstacles. The sweetness of its honey mirrors mankind’s capacity to see goodness after moments of unpleasantness. The busy bees work tirelessly during their lifetime to provide for their family while leaving flourishing life behind them. Is there a better symbol to give as a gift of love and inspiration?

DE14729 Diamond and Enamel Gold Bee

Brooch with open wings.

You can shop for more bee jewelry, antique jewelry, vintage jewelry, and estate jewelry in both of DuMont Estate Jewelry's New York City Showrooms as well as on the website at www.dumontestatejewelry.com.

Making a Cameo in Fashion

     Traditionally, the term “cameo” referred to objects carved in relief from a different colored background. The difference in color was achieved by carving in materials which had natural banded colors such as Sardonyx, Agate, or Shell. The division of the backdrop and relief would be distinguished where the two colors meet. However, one can find cameos carved out of a single color from materials such as Amethyst or Amber glass as well.

      The earliest cameos were often carved out of semi-precious stone. These cameos are referred to as “hard stone” cameos. It is usually of greater value since it requires more skill to carve in the harder material. It was during the 15^th and 16^th century that it became popular to carve in shell. Some modern cameos are composed of the relief and background as separate pieces. The traditional technique of carving the entire object from a single piece is highly regarded when compared to the modern method.

DE15866: Victorian Hard stone Cameo set in Gold

     Cameos can be found in the form of jewelry or even objets d’art. Older pieces feature the subject of classical themes from mythology or carvings of important public figures. In more recent centuries, the portrait of a maiden became very popular. Antique cameos were rare even during Victorian times and this resulted in many unusual and interesting techniques of faking the real thing. Josiah Wedgewood developed a kind of stoneware which he colored with metallic oxides that was used to create cameos. His early works included many classical scenes. His jasper cameos became very popular despite the fact that they were not made using the traditional technique and are now highly collectable. Other less honest imitators attempted to “age” cameos by pushing new stone cameos into the neck of turkeys so that the gastric juices can produce the desire aged effect!

     Queen Victoria loved cameos and helped to make this fashionable accessory popular. The Queen even took Cameo carving lessons. Better technology allowed for the mass production of cameos and made it more accessible to the growing middle class. This fashion item was so popular that confectionaries started selling chocolate and sugar cameos!

DE13932: Victorian Onyx and Natural Pearl Cameo set in Gold

            

Pyrope Jewelry

    Garnet is the birthstone of January. It is one of the largest families of gemstones and comes in every color except for blue. However, the name Garnet stems from the red variety and the pomegranate fruit. Its name actually translates to “fiery” due to its resemblance to the clusters of seeds in the fruit.
     The variety best known for its deep red color and beautiful clarity is the Pyrope variety. This name was derived from the Greek word for “fire” and “eye”. Pyrope is found in the Czech Republic. During Victorian times, this place was
called Bohemia. Much of the jewelry from this period was crafted from Bohemian Garnets. Its deep rich color qualified it as part of daytime dress along with Jet and Pyrite. It is beautiful but not distracting and was deemed appropriate for mourning attire. A great deal of the jewelry worn after Prince Albert’s death featured Pyrope. It was used as sentimental jewelry to express love as well as mourning. Garnets would be used in jewelry to spell words such as “regard” (“g” for garnet” and “hope” (“p” for Pyrope).
     Although this stone was very abundant during Victorian times, it has become much harder to find since it is only mined in the Czech Republic. Victorian Pyrope jewelry would be a fantastic addition to any collection!

DE11826: 1960's Victorian Style Garnet and Cultured Pearl Necklace

DE14143: Victorian Czechoslovakian Garnet Brooch in an Open Frame Floral Inspired Design

Grammys glitter: elaborate earrings, chunky cuffs | National Jeweler

Grammys glitter: elaborate earrings, chunky cuffs | National Jeweler